Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Women's Fashion Shoes, Boots and Hosiery Autumn 2006 Winter 2007

Ladies Fashion Shoes

A new fashion look in footwear includes stylish cone heels. Ladies fashion shoes have wooden heels, leopard print or use reptilian look materials. Animal print material footwear from BodenSome are flat comfy shoes like ballerina shoes. Others steal ideas from the shipyard and use rope to make both bags and footwear. Shoes are also trimmed with luxury furs. Velvet wedges from Boden

Look out for T-bar shoes, ankle strap shoes and designer boots in Lurex python skins.

These velvet wedges to the left from Boden have a real party look for them, making them perfect as an Autumn Winter ladies fashion shoe.

Images from the autumn 2006 range of ladies fashion shoes courtesy of Boden UK.

Boden velvet range of ballerina flat pumps.

Ballerina Flats

Ballerina flats with round toes in all types of materials including animal, gold, metallics and velvets are winter winners. These ladies fashion shoes on the right are a velvet range by Boden.

Animal Print Shoes

Animal prints abound in fashion accessories. These zebra print ballerina flats just below right are from online site www.prettyballerinas.com. They come in a range of colours including the red version.Prettyballerinas.com red zebra flats in Audrey style.

The ballerina flats are made in several animal prints of varying scales and impressed leathers as well as golden tones. Many more gold ballerina flats are featured on the gold accessory page.Zebra print pumps from prettyballerinas.com

Some of the styles at pretty ballerinas are delightful. I especially like these animal print ballerina shoes with gold bows and these red rose suede ballerina shoes. In fact I might order a pair of either quite soon! They look perfect for Christmas too and what great gifts they would make, they really are so very pretty.

Audrey leopard suede animal print ballerina shoes with gold bows from prettyballerinas.com Marilyn red suede flower ballerina shoes from prettyballerinas.com

Matalan red shoes.£14Maybe you prefer really high footwear. If so, the glamour of red high heeled shoes will easily liven up a plain black dress.Matalan dark red patent look shoes with high cone heel £12Or treat yourself to some Christian Louboutin shoes which have the trademark red soles.

These low cut Mary Jane red and dark red patent shoes right are from Matalan and are a bargain price. The shiny patent look is new fad gaining momentum. Look out for cone heels like those on the darker red shoes. Cone heels vary in height so there is a style for every ladies fashion shoe.Leather tongue buckle ballerina shoes from Accessorize £35 €54

The pretty flat red tongue buckle ballerina shoes from Accessorize left, offer a modern alternative to be worn with shorter clothes, £35/€54.

You can easily imagine skipping around town wearing these easy flats and shopping until you drop.

Women's Fashion Boots

Ankle boots with bow trim from PrinciplesThis winter my preference though is for laced up shoes or bootie shoes like these wonderful feminine ankle boots left from Principles. The laced up shoes are by River Island.

The laced up fashion shoes on the right are by River Island.

Boots by PrinciplesIf you area traditionalist when it comes to women's fashion boots, then these heeled suede tan boots may carry you through the winter.

They will tone well with all those gold clothes you add to your wardrobe. Tan suede boots like these from Principles right, also look great with denim.

Many women's fashion boots have extra straps which have either biker or equestrian associations.

These practical and affordable styles of fashion boots below are all from Benetton. With the hottest look once again being Equestrian riding touches in boots.

Benetton slouch ankle fashion bootsLeather fashion boots from Benetton

Fur Fashion Boots

D&G fur boots.Benetton boots with fur.These white fur fashion boots to the left are from Dolce and Gabbana and are part of their layered looks. While, the green boots on the right, are the Benetton version of these fashionable fur boots. Don't they just look warm, comfortable and fun to wear.

Hosiery

By wearing ribbed tights or dark colours like plum, bottle green, black, grey, brown, violet it's possible to show lots of leg in tights. If these are too dull for you consider figured, lace or motif tights such as these by NEXT DIRECTORY UK.

Tights by NEXT Directory UK.

Contemporary looks this fall are easily achieved by the addition of opaque tights. Wolford are known leaders of some of the best fashion tights that will last and not look mangled easily with wear. Choose sheer pantyhose more carefully so that it is sheer rather than old lady looking. You can find a great selection of tights at wolfordboutiquelondon.com.

Even argyle pattern knee socks were given an airing at fashion shows.

No-Shows

No-shows are marketing man's answer to capture lost sales of tights in summer. These fashion accessories are also useful too. They consist of foot tubes or cases that cover just the toes, foot sole and heels or are simply no more than a foot band, a toe band or an ankle band. This image is courtesy of NEXT UK where you can buy these no-shows online. Briefer versions exist from other manufacturers.

No-shows the latest way to keep comfortable without tights.

In the past we might have thought them a variation of trouser socks, but they are not true socks as they don't even totally cover the foot. The intention is that there is no show. The reason that some women still wear tights in summer, even on hot days, is to protect their feet with a fine layer between shoe and foot. Many have thought the heat discomfort worth it to not have raw rubbed feet.

These no-show items are meant to be worn with sandals and other summer footwear to prevent chafing and blisters in hot weather. No-shows are the new answer to uncomfortably hot tights. Pantyhose manufacturers are clapping their hands at the development of this new product ever since the no-show concept was created in 2001. Please don't confuse no-shows with stocking fabric trouser socks to the knee. The no-shows are a slip-on and on occasion, a little like complimentary airplane slippers you may have been given on long flights, or perhaps similar to a brief and simple tennis wrist sweat band. Note that Michael Kors will be releasing no-shows this autumn.

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Fashion Week Basks in Success of Dress

The dress emerges as a strong trend for spring 2007 at designer previews at N.Y. Fashion week

NEW YORK, Sep. 14, 2006
By SAMANTHA CRITCHELL AP Fashion Writer

(AP)


(AP) New York Fashion Week is basking in the success of the dress. It's already been a strong item for fall fashion, but it has emerged as the key piece for spring.

Tom Julian, director of trends for McCann-Erickson, said spring 2007 is taking its cue from a classic Audrey Hepburn look _ with A-line shapes and minimal luxe fabrics _ but adding a bit of a "Paris Hilton personality" with strapless tops and other sexy accents.

Shoppers will have their pick of dress silhouettes, since so many versions have been offered, including shifts, sacks, wraps, sundresses and halters.

Other things that have caught Julian's eye are trench and trapeze coats, blouses, walking shorts, miniskirts and even bold distinctive accessories.

"The checklist? The chemise, the cropped boxy jacket, the bell skirt, the angel sleeve blouse, an eyelet something," he said Wednesday.

_ Anna Sui: Sui took her audience to a bizarre "Alice in Wonderland" tea party that was crashed by some punk pirates.

Sounds about right for Sui, who relishes in her role as fashion's rebellious rocker chick, and her clothes reflected that. Many of the outfits were still wearable, even the unlikely pairing of a pretty black embroidered organza dress with a ripped mesh top.

A navy chiffon and gauze halter dress with a navy and cream striped knit T-shirt, a bold red floral print dress with a matching coat, and a drop-waist, lace-up, short-sleeve dress in the "multi tea party" print were among the looks that would look cute on Sui's sassy, stylish fans.

A red floral scarf-print drawstring dress also was adorable from the front, but the back was missing, exposing the model's floral bikini bottom. Guess that was the point.

_ Michael Kors: So many little girls dream of being a dancer. After Kors' show, many big girls will dream of wearing dancer-inspired clothing.

To a soundtrack laced with music from the Broadway show "A Chorus Line," models went down the runway in full, fluid jersey skirts _ the best ones, called "rehearsal skirts," were asymmetrical with a high slit on one side _ and soft cashmere sweaters.

A tan silk georgette pleated dress with a black cardigan and black leggings would be the go-to outfit in any woman's closet because it was sexy, sweet and modest _ and looked incredibly comfortable.

Other must-have looks were a cashmere sweater that slid down one shoulder worn with one of those tan rehearsal skirts, a feminine nude-colored silk chiffon skirt that practically floated, a jersey halter dress with a scarf that trailed behind, and a nude-colored eyelet trench coat.

Sticking to the theme, Kors offered light pink tap shorts but he balanced them with a long, slouchy blazer.

For the closet disco dancer, he showed a loose minidress covered in shimmering black paillettes and a white wrap shirt with a black paillette legging. Both outfits were full of pizazz.

A kimono-style shift in nude paillettes was a little more subtle, but just as seductive.

_ Matthew Williamson: Anyone waiting for a blast of bright colors got it at Williamson's show, held inside a newly renovated building at a Hudson River pier.

An entire group of outfits seemed to be inspired by button candy _ sweet little circles in all the shades of the rainbow.

Another section featured Southwest-style embroidery; the standout piece was a beaded dress in an airy apricot-colored fabric. There also were florals and a metallic lily pad print. Just go with it _ this is the wild Williamson we're talking about.

_ Carmen Marc Valvo: Valvo is known for eveningwear, and there were indeed many lovely cocktail dresses and gowns at his show, but it was the swimwear that really stood out.

His "full-bodied bikini" looked more like a dainty, black-lace, long-sleeve bodysuit _ but it also looked great.

Another noteworthy swimsuit was a gold wrap-front maillot with a plunging V in the front and an even lower one in the back. There also was a pretty black floral-lace beach cover-up.

A dress worth singling out was a very Old Hollywood gown in a silver hammered satin with a draped back.

_ Peter Som: With this collection, Som courted sophisticated and refined women who also want to wear the looser shapes of the season.

A feminine organdy blouse with full angel sleeves was heavenly as was a white organdy strapless dress with tiny pleats.

His coats, including a 3/4-length cocktail coat in a dove gray lace-jacquard fabric, were among the best items.

_ Ports 1961: Ports 1961, a brand that originated in Canada, made its first appearance at New York Fashion Week with a collection rooted in 1940s Argentina.

Somehow on the catwalk, though, it all made sense.

Many of the dresses were delicate and romantic, especially a gold pleated-front strapless dress with a tiny lace jacket and a light-as-a-feather capelet halter dress with an open back that was done in an airy cream-colored fabric.

There were some fiery dresses, too _ remember the Argentinian connection? A red halter dress with a fitted top and flounced bottom would be perfect for dancing.

Spanish fashion show bans underweight models

Last Updated Wed, 13 Sep 2006 11:38:02 EDT CBC News

Organizers of a top fashion show in Spain say they will reject overly thin models who protesters say encourage eating disorders in girls.

The Association of Fashion Designers of Spain said it wanted to project "an image of beauty and health" for the Madrid show, which runs Sept. 18-22, rather than rail-thin looks.

Medical associations and women's advocacy groups protested last year's show, saying some models were too thin.

The show is using the body mass index or BMI, a calculation of weight in relation to height, to measure the models. About 30 per cent of would-be participants at a previous event failed the test.

World Health Organization experts recommend a BMI of between 18.5 and 25. The show has hired medics to check models. Models with a BMI of less than 18 will be turned down.

The fashion industry has a responsibility to portray healthy body images, including fuller-figured women, said Madrid's regional government, which sponsors the show.

Role models for young girls

Fashion shows "are mirrors for many young women," and the women who stroll down the catwalk are role models for young girls obsessed with thinness, said Concha Guerra, deputy finance minister of the regional administration.

This is the first time extremely thin models have been excluded from a major international fashion show, said Jesus del Pozo, a designer who is part of the Spanish association running the show.

The fashion industry is being used as a scapegoat for eating disorders, responded Cathy Gould of New York's Elite modelling agency.

"I think it's outrageous," Gould told Reuters. "I understand they want to set this tone of healthy, beautiful women, but what about discrimination against the model and what about the freedom of the designer?"

The focus should be on designers' collections, not model size, a spokeswoman for the Spanish fashion designers association said.

So far, other major international fashion shows have not followed the Spanish example.

With files from The Associated Press.

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Wardrobe for the Weightless: Space Inspires Fashion Show

By Leonard David
Senior Space Writer
posted: 09 June 2006
04:45 pm ET




Maybe musician Donald Fagen was onto something. In his classic 1982 song, I.G.Y. (What A Beautiful World), the sometime-Steely Dan collaborator sang of adventurers buying a ticket to the wheel in space and a world with spandex jackets for everyone.

Well, while the wheel is still in the drawing stages, the Japanese Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA) and Rocketplane Ltd., along with numbers of designers and artisans, have taken it upon themselves to improve on the spandex: a Hyper Space Couture Design Contest.

Runway fashion

The multi-part competition has been underway for several months, patterned to elicit space tourism fashion ideas. A key rule is that suborbital wear submittals must be functional and scientific—but don’t forget a stylish chic.

“Rocketplane made the fundamental design decision to fly in a true ‘shirtsleeve environment’ very early in the development program,” explained Chuck Lauer, Vice President of Business Development for Rocketplane, based in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma.

Rocketplane’s XP vehicle will accommodate a pilot and three passengers. The fighter-sized craft is powered by both turbojet engines and a rocket engine. The vehicle is being built to accelerate to speeds of some 2,386 miles per hour (3,500 feet per second) and reach altitudes in excess of 330,000 feet (100 kilometers). Flying that suborbital profile, all onboard will be weightless for three to four minutes during the trek to the edge of space.

“In our view, not having to wear bulky pressure suits, helmets or breathing masks will enhance the customer’s space flight experience,” Lauer told SPACE.com.

Say no to Nomex

It was Misuzu Onuki, Asia Liaison for the Space Frontier Foundation and Rocketplane's Asian Business Representative, who first identified the need for design, creative expression and personal preference to become a part of the customer’s individual space flight choices.

“We were stuck in the ‘old school’ way of thinking about space flight clothing. We assumed that our choices were limited to picking our own Midnight Blue company color for the standard Nomex military flight suit, with our own logo patches in place of the NASA meatball,” Lauer pointed out.

The Space Couture Design Contest—organized by Ms. Onuki, Eri Matsui, a fashion designer based in Tokyo, and their colleagues in JAXA and the fashion industry—have spurred a fresh and exciting look at what the possibilities for personal space wear really can be.

The contest is zipping forward to having the top 10 finalists produce and test their personal creations, Lauer explained. The winning designs will become part of the catalog of Rocketplane Official Space Wear.

“Ultimately, we would like to see additional design contests for the European and American markets and a whole line of winning space wear fashion designs become a part of our catalog,” Lauer said.

Casual wear for space

The space wear contest is for the first generation of space tourism, Onuki explained.

“So far, space tourism wear has been not so considered … though space tourism is very popular among the general public,” Onuki observed. “However, wear for space tourism is one of the important elements to make space tourism very dramatic and exhilarating.”

Onuki told SPACE.com that she has been engaged in research geared toward casual wear for space over the last five years.

“Though it is easy to ask a famous fashion designer to design space suits, I chose another way to encourage mass market public attention to space tourism by performing the competition,” Onuki added. “To do that, we got a new pleasure. I was sure that it must be interesting to see the design pictures which embody people’s image and dreams towards personally experiencing space flight.”

Catwalk in space

Onuki said that, in working with fashion designer, Ms. Matsui, the intent is to cross-thread mathematics, science, art, and physics with fashion.

To date, there have been several kickoff events, as well as fashion shows to stir interest in the multi-step contest. At the end of March, contest officials had received 882 drawings by 365 individuals. Last month, the top 10 designs plus three alternate designs were picked. The actual winner, second and third place will be selected later this year.

“I think that it will be very hard to select one as the ultimate winner,” Onuki admitted.

Contest organizers plan to perform the first space fashion show—“Catwalk in Space”—this autumn hosted by Space Travellers of Germany, as well as German and Japanese media.

A Zero G Wedding Dress designed by Matsui, as well as the top 10 designers garbed in their own outfits, will float in weightlessness courtesy of a parabolic-flying Russian Ilyushin 76 aircraft.
























































Friday, September 01, 2006

Black 60s Shift Dresses - Little Black Dresses - LBDS

Baby's in Black

No female over 16 is too young to own a little black dress. Younger girls and women can opt for little black evening dresses like these mini dresses, which can be teamed with opaque tights or leggings or just show lots of leg. I especially like the youthful quality in this black evening dress right from the USA company Shine.

Oasis catwalk black mini dress autumn 2006New Look black mini dress autumn 2006LBDs - we all need several, so start collecting now!

Choose from trapeze styles with added hemline flare or empire lines. These styles have child like baby doll elements and being shorter very much suit the young.

Always take every opportunity to wear these 'baby doll' styles when you are young, as all too soon the stage will come when you simply cannot get away with this look. Woe is me!Matalan black shoes with ankle strap.

There are so many shoe styles on offer, from the gold platforms from River Island seen at the top of the page, to these high black ankle strap shoes from Matalan.

You will be spoilt for choice and will be able to totally indulge whatever personal style preference for footwear you have.

The black shoes from Matalan have a real vintage feel to them and would create a totally different look to that of the ballerina shoes.

Velvet

Matalan velvet coat.Boden midnight blue velvet dress.

Yes, you can wear any combination of skinny jeans and trousers, but autumn occasions are just that - occasions that offer you a chance to dress up a little more than usual. As an alternative to jeans and trousers, wear a classic velvet coat like this Matalan version on the left. As a result you will have a luxury, but low cost evening look.

Velvet offers romantic looks that can move from day to evening with ease. This rich midnight blue velvet dress from Boden would suit many girls and women. It's a real party frock.

You could give it a quirkier edge by pushing the skirt out with a visible net petticoat. Midnight blue is one of the best colours for velvet, as it retains a richness lost on pastel velvets which are horribly fattening. Velvet dress from John Lewis

Velvet is a lush fabric that is perfect for Christmas and New year celebrations.

Brown shades are one the colours trends of autumn 2006 with earthy natural tones being important. This velvet V-neck evening dress is from John Lewis.

Learn how to care for velvet and how to press it without damaging the pile. With the proper care you can keep your velvet party dress looking in good shape for years.

Separates

Boden

If a dress is not for you, then seek out a skirt with an embellished hemline. This skirt with a folkloric decorated hem from Boden may be an option.

Boden have teamed their skirt with matching ballerina flats. In UK we see ballerina flats in every shoe shop and people skipping around town in them.

Or you may prefer more of a clubbing look that follows a trend not yet worn by everyone. Bubble skirts are just coming into mainstream fashion.

Shine New YorkHot trend - Shine New York cream bubble skirt and top.

This pretty creamy bubble skirt from Shine New York fits the bill for young women's fashion. This is one of the few bubble skirts I've seen that I really like.

The matt fabric deep golden ochre top is a very good choice and also a strong colour for autumn 2006. This is a very refreshing change from the looks of the Teri Hatcher floaty tops and jeans with which we are now very familiar.

Shine New York classic red mini bubble dressIf you prefer a dress to separates, Shine New York has this classic red mini bubble dress which would be a perfect colour choice for the festive season.

The red style by Shine is very similar to a dress Paris Hilton has been photographed wearing.

Again like the golden ochre tone, red is another strong colour for fall and I've written a page about Lady in Red as a colour choice in detail.

Images all courtesy of Matalan, Oasis, New Look,House of Fraser, French Connection, Boden, John Lewis, River Island Dorothy Perkins image courtesy of Arcadia UK. In USA Shine New York. Header image courtesy of River Island.

Gold Brocade Looks

River Island - Young Women's Fashion

River Island brocade mini dress - Jacquard bow detail shift dress £59.99As Christmas draws nearer and festive party dressing makes the agenda, watch out for the glimmer of gold with brocade. This brocade look is in every range no matter what your age.

The golden brocade dress, to the left, is youthful especially, when teamed with the unusual, such as thick dark tights and gold platform shoes.

Left is a young women's dress by River Island, Jacquard Brocade Mini Shift Dress - bow detail at £59.99. This is a jacquard brocade dress in soft gold that is cut in a 60’s shift shape and finished with a simple bow for a romantic ethereal feel.

At River Island, accessories continue to play an important fashion role and reflect the overall mood of the season. The shoe collection features metallic wedges and stacked leather court shoes. You may also consider patent cutwork shoes and round toe ankle boots with chain and animal print trims.

Dorothy Perkins

Dorothy Perkins gold brocade mini dress. Gold brocade dress £50 / €80  Cream and brown striped beanie £8 / €12At Dorothy Perkins, young women's fashion takes its inspiration from the 1960s and 1980s with hints of C17th romanticism in a collection that ticks all the trend boxes this season. You can see that the youthful look is achieved with a beret.

For the festive season, Dorothy Perkins have subtle metallic evening wear with both vintage inspired jacquards and shimmering Lurex.

Left - Image courtesy of Dorothy Perkins - Deep Gold Brocade Dress £50/€80. Cream and brown striped beanie £8/€12.

This gold brocade dress is one of the prettiest high street brocade dresses that I have seen whilst viewing PR images this season. You can see lots more gold tone colours and styles on the gold tone accessory page.

Gold is not the only metallic on offer, there are plenty of soft silver toned clothes around, from the palest shimmering dove grey ivory, to steel magnolia. Dorothy Perkins has a whole range of grey clothes, but my favourite is this slinky, silver jersey, sixties shift dress with a silver thread running through the knit fabric. See below.

Silver Looks

Dorothy Perkins - Silver lurex mini dress £25 / €40. Leopard print envelope bag £8 / €12.Sweater dresses are a big look this fall 2006. This simple long sleeved 60's straight knit shift, in silver grey and from Dorothy Perkins has a Lurex thread running through it. Silver Lurex mini dress £25/€40. Leopard print envelope bag £8/€12.

It is perfect for relaxed festive winter evenings and could look great showing plenty of leg just as the model does. Or, it could be teamed with leggings and worn like a tunic or gain a more kooky twist with any type of boots.Straight empire line shift - French Connection £150

Slinky and shimmering, this straight empire line shift right from French Connection can be worn belted as show here or unbelted if you prefer. Silver fully sequinned dress from French Connection is £150. Fabulous and a classic to add the party wardrobe!

Team it with classy jewellery and a brocade or a black velvet cropped jacket, feather shrug or cape.

To make this French Connection liquid silver dress right more versatile over Christmas, you could wear it 60's style as a pinafore dress over a black polo neck cashmere or skinny rib sweater.

Leggings and Footless Tights Shine New York footless leggings

Use the layering technique to add warmth through a festive day like Christmas Eve. Wearing boots with the silver dress would add a different dimension. You can play the glitz up or down. Play it down with opaque or lace tights.

Make sure you have some footless leggings like these from Shine New York, so you can play dress-up at home to work out some fresh new looks for fall. Or get some three quarter leggings like these from Marks and Spencer.

Limited Collection Cropped Length Leggings

Footless tights and footless leggings will have different wearing qualities so make sure you understand the difference between these when you shop. Price reflects the thickness, quality, depth of dye, laddering, comfort factors, extensibility of the fabric and wearing elasticity. Footless tights can be priced around £2- £5, footless leggings are more likely to cost £10 to £20. Check the quality of samples the shop displays. Leggings should fit like a second skin and not be prone to bagging.

Silver and Gold ShoesMatalan silver shoes. Metallic block heel £14

These inexpensive silver shoes right are from Matalan. These fashion shoes would team well with many silver grey outfits. Metallic block heel shoe at £14.

Different shoes can make the appearance of an outfit look quite altered and present an opportunity to reflect your personality.

These gold ballet flats below are from Marks and Spencer and would look good teamed with brocades too. The silver peep toe ballet flat is also very girly. You can buy any of these three shoes from the picture links.

Limited Collection Snakeskin Effect Platform Heel Peep Toe Shoes Plaited Bow Ballet Pump Bow Peep Toe Pumps

If you would like to see more details of these snakeskin effect shoes, with cone heels, there is a link to Marks and Spencer in the above picture.

Monday, January 09, 2006

Fashion design

Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to the design of clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.

Fashion designers may work under their own name, for example Donna Karan, or for another Designer name or Brand. Designer brands which have a 'name' as their Brand such as Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction a designer director.

Fashion design differs from costume due to its core product having a built in obsolescence usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first person that sewed his label into the garments that he created. Whilst all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design however only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design.


Fashions of 1915 by Poiret and Lanvin from Le Bon Ton.
Enlarge
Fashions of 1915 by Poiret and Lanvin from Le Bon Ton.

Couture beginnings

The first fashion designer who was not merely a dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth (1826–1895). Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and high fashion descended from styles worn at royal courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. With his unprecedented success, his customers could attach a name and a label to his designs once they learned that they were from the House of Worth, thus starting the tradition of having the designer of a house be not only the creative head but the symbol of the brand as well. (Foreshadowing another contemporary trend, the House of Worth remained in business long after its founder's death in 1895, continuing until Worth's great-grandson closed the house in 1952.)

Worth's former apprentice Paul Poiret opened his own fashion house in 1904, melding the styles of Art Nouveau and aestheic dress with Paris fashion. His early Art Deco creations signalled the demise of the corset from female fashion.

Following in Worth's and Poiret's footsteps were: Patou, Vionnet, Fortuny, Molyneux ( who taught Dior, Balmain and Lanvin ), Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Hand in hand with clothing, haute couture accessories evolved internationally with such names as Guccio Gucci, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Thierry Hermès, Judith Leiber, and others.

It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. The images alone could be presented to clients much more cheaply than by producing an actual sample garment in the workroom. If the client liked the design, she ordered it and the resulting garment made money for the house. Thus, the tradition of designers sketching out garment designs instead of presenting completed garments on models to customers began as an economy.

The early twentieth century

Throughout the 1920s and '30s, all high fashion originated in Paris, and to some extent London. American and British fashion magazines sent editors to the Paris fashion shows. Department stores sent buyers to the Paris shows, where they purchased garments to copy (and openly stole the style lines and trim details of others). Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear departments featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores' assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of their targeted American customers.


1940's and 1950's

Most fashion houses closed during occupation of Paris during World War II, and several designers including Mainbocher permanently relocated to New York. Nazi Germany continued to support some couture during the Occupation of Paris. Hollywood, largely underwritten by New York garment manufacturers, became the fashion focus during WWII. Paris recovered its primacy in the post-war era with Dior's New Look, but Paris was never the sole arbiter of trends again.

1960's and the rise of ready-to-wear

The rise of British fashion in the mid-sixties with ready-to-wear designers such as Mary Quant signalled a temporary end of French dominance. Taking their cue from street fashion, these designers catered to a younger consumer and offered retailers a new source of inspiration.

By the early 1960s, celebrities were becoming the new Fashion icons, even though they in turn wore designs from the couturiers of the day: influential "partnerships" of celebrity and high-fashion designer included Audrey Hepburn and Givenchy, and Jackie Kennedy and Oleg Cassini.

1970's

The decade began with a continuation of the hippie look from the 1960s. Jeans remained frayed and the Tie dye was still popular. The space age look was on the wane. Hems began dropping in 1974 to below the knee, until finally reaching the lower midcalf in 1977, called the midi skirt. Yves St Laurent introduced the peasant look in 1976 which became very influential. Skirts were gathered into tiers and shoulderlines dropped. Clothing became very unstructured and fluid at this point.

Punk as a style originated from London from the designer Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McClaren. Postmodernist and iconaclastic in essence this movement was a direct reaction to the economic situation during the economic depression of the period. Punk had at it's heart a manifesto of creation through disorder. Safety pins became nose and ear jewellery, rubber fetishwear was subverted to become daywear and images of mass murders, rapists and criminal were elavated to iconagraphic status. The trend dictation of the old couture houses was over.


1990's to present

Echoing the end of the 19th century, fashion at the end of the 20th century took on an ominous mixture of opulence and decadence, combined with a shared prospect of unavoidable radical change. The designer that best summed up this new mood was the British designer Alexander McQueen, His runway shows tackled themes that fashion had previous not embraced. These themes included rape, disability, religious violence, death and body modification. Models wore contatc lenses that blank out there eyes, or plaster neck braces and metal restraints that kept their bodies in rigid and painful poses.

This new mood was in dramatic contrast to the role and perception of fashion in the 1980's which was seen as being solely about status and power. Designer fashion now found itself aligned with contemporary artists including Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin and the Chapman Brothers. Other designers that were part of this movement included Martin Margiela, Hussain Chalayan, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Nicolas Ghesquière.

Fashion Education

Most fashion designers have attended art school. There are a number of well known fashion design schools worldwide. The most famous is Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. Alumni of St. Martins include John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, and Hussien Chalayan. Other notable schools are Parsons The New School for Design in New York City, Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, and The Royal College of Arts in London.

Income

Median annual earnings for fashion designers were $48,530 in 2000. The middle 50 percent earned between $34,800 and $73,780. The lowest 10 percent earned less than $24,710, and the highest 10 percent earned more than $103,970. Median annual earnings were $52,860 in apparel, piece goods, and notions--the industry employing the largest numbers of fashion designers.


Related terms

  • Sewing Professional is the most general term for those who make their living by sewing, teaching, writing about sewing, or retailing sewing supplies. She or he may work out of her home, a studio, or retail shop, and may work part-time or full-time. She or he may be any or all or the following sub-specialities:
  • A Custom Clothier makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet an individual customer's needs and preferences.
  • A Custom Dressmaker specializes in women's custom apparel, including day dresses, careerwear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear, or lingerie.
  • A Tailor makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them, for men or women.
  • An Alterations Specialist, or Alterationist adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no means can all alterationists do tailoring.
  • Designers think up combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills whatsoever, and may only sketch or conceptualize garments.
  • Patternmakers flat draft the shapes and sizes of the numerous pieces of a garment by hand using paper and measuring tools or by computer using AutoCAD based software, or by draping muslin on a dressform. The resulting pattern pieces must comprise the intended design of the garment and they must fit the intended wearer.
  • A Wardrobe Consultant or Fashion Advisor recommends styles and colors that are flattering for a client.
  • A Seamstress is someone who sews seams, or in other words, a machine operator in a factory who may not have the skills to make garments from scratch or to fit them on a real body. This term is not a synonym for dressmaker. Seamstress is an old euphemism for prostitute. At the turn of the last century in Seattle, for example, 80% of the city's revenues came from taxes on sewing machines, which were placed in windows instead of red lights. No doubt respectable dressmakers and tailors had to sew in the dark.